THE SPA TREATMENT

Ever wonder about the selling point of vegan cosmetics? My skin is not lactose intolerant, and it quite likes a honey mask. But I’m starting to get it now, thanks to a new FDA rule that reveals the fairly pervasive use of insects for coloring — particularly the blue, red, purple tones, suggests an article in CosmeticsDesign.

Under the new rule, beauty companies (as well as food and beverage manufacturers) that use colors based on carmine and cochineal extract — both derived from the ground cochineal beetles (see the smaller female bug at left) — must now identify these by name on the ingredient list.

Until now, the FDA permitted companies to use the incredibly vague “artificial color”, “artificial color added,” or “color added” on labels, thus allowing consumers to imagine that chemical dyes were responsible their uber-blueberry yogurt or their crimson lips, perhaps. I’d hazard a guess that flying locusts would never have come to mind.

Not that I’m saying bugs are ickier than chemicals for the skin or vice versa, but wouldn’t it be nice to know what’s in your product? After all, “artificial color” is a heck of a misnomer: What’s artificial about insects? They’re the greenest ingredient on the block.

Even so, the FDA ruling has nothing to do with going green or even good karma. It’s been approved because of a number of “severe allergic reactions, including anaphylaxis have been traced to the previously undisclosed insect-based ingredients,” which have been used in cosmetics for centuries, I’d guess, so no need to sound the alarm.

But I wonder if that will mean the FDA will require nail polishes to declare these ingredients, too, since polishes are currently exempt from having to list any ingredients, and most consider the insect world fair game for their gorgeous colors. (I’m thinking probably no.)

Until the labeling changes, look for lipsticks marked carmine-free. There aren’t many to my knowledge — do add a comment if you’ve tried and recommend brand or have anything to add about how vegan cosmetics wear. As for vegan polishes, I’m a fan of SpaRitual.